inside american apparel: 4,000 downtown employees and counting
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With over 1.4 million garments produced per week, American Apparel is the largest clothing manufacturer in the United States.
In this era of outsourcing and profits above all else, the company has made waves because of its high quality-control standards and efficiency, not to mention generous employee wages and benefits.
Sweeter still is that it’s based right here in Downtown Los Angeles, employing over 4,000 at its factory headquarters at 7th and Alameda streets and nearly 7,000 worldwide.
Angelenic was offered an insider tour of the manufacturing center this week, and new contributor Bryan Higgins and I jumped at the chance to introduce a prominent Downtown industrial leader to our readers.
Many may be familiar with the slogan “Made Sweatshop-Free in Downtown LA” — not to mention their provocative billboard ads — but may not know what it takes to produce those soft cotton-blend hoodies, t-shirts and undies that populate the wardrobes of so many throughout the nation.
One thing’s for certain: I’ll never look at a t-shirt the same way again.
High-Tech Meets Low-Tech
The pink-hued factory headquarters building and adjacent distribution center is a veritable 24-hour nerve center for worldwide operations.
Vertical integration is the mantra here, meaning every aspect of production work — from the making of fabric to creating patterns, sewing, dyeing, product development and modeling — is done in-house. This well-documented management style minimizes wasted time and materials due to strict quality standards.
Skilled seamstresses and pattern-makers fill long rows of work stations, completing large wholesale orders and designing new products.
It’s amazing what can be done when you don’t have to wait weeks for a finished product to arrive from overseas. As proudly described by our guide Chris Gonzalez, an American Apparel designer can brainstorm an idea for a new line on Monday morning and have 40 production samples ready in two hours. The finished garments can be in stores by Thursday.
Retail transactions now account for over 50% of sales in 33 US states and 18 countries. IT professionals monitor the origins of Web hits to compare them with existing retail locations, and if a large number of hits to the online store originate from an area of the country underserved by American Apparel retail locations, that information is forwarded to the retail exploration team.
Noble Causes
One key issue for often-controversial CEO Dov Charney is immigration reform, a point driven home by the “Legalize LA” campaign slogan plastered in ten-foot-high letters on the sides of the headquarters building.
The company sponsors a number of programs important to employees: Affordable health plans, skills and English language training, a free bike-share program, and perhaps most touchingly, free long-distance phone service on every floor of the building.
Growing with the Community
Think that’s a good deal? American Apparel is undergoing a large hiring drive at the moment, with positions available in every department from production to information technology. There’s a specific need for qualified people in accounting and finance.
What started out in 1997 with 40 employees has grown into a huge publicly owned corporation. Who knew that in today’s corporate America putting the well-being of employees above profits can lead to business success?
-Full American Apparel Photoset on Flickr
American Apparel
747 Warehouse Street
Los Angeles, CA 90021
Online Store
Employment Opportunities
38 comments
Great job guys! The 4-day concept to rack thing is very impressive. Also, many companies should view American Apparel as a role model for progressive business plans - employees truly are your most valuable assets.
Great work, guys. This is probably the most informative thing I’ve ever read about American Apparel.
Is that the famous white wall?
Yes! That is the white wall where their ads are shot.
yeah, great role model with a girl-hungry CEO who sexually harrasses his female employees. not to mention those objectifying ads that are supposed to be selling clothes….though i rarely see any on the models?
i get the labor law thing, and that part is great. lets do that some more. but for now, i boycott american apparel.
Google “fashion ads” and look in the image section. There isn’t anything unique or extra ‘objectifying’ about American Apparel ads, except for, of course that they feature actual, real girls that any one of us might know. Is that what you have a problem with? Seems like a contradiction to me.
Rich - did you see anything weird while you were there?
I didn’t see anything weird. And I was so looking forward to it! All I saw were happy employees — which is kind of weird, if you think about it.
well of course Rich didn’t see anything on the tour.
its my understanding that the models are either kids of his employees, or random girls Dov Charney picks off the street in his limo, and of course, there’s no age minimum. He has several sexual harrassment cases against him, and in interviews you can clearly sense a degrading attitude toward women.
seeing professional models provocativley is not a big deal- its their job, its airbrushed, etc. Seeing random girls off the street with their legs wide open on a billboard just makes me uncomfortable.
when people talk about american apparel, i just think its worth mentioning the dark side too.
I think we all have heard about the “dark side” Alex.
You are not saying anything we haven’t heard about before.
Plus also unless you have personally seen, first hand,then it is secondhand information.
I have a hard time believing that he goes in his “limo” and picks up “girls” off the street.
what i have heard is that he does use average, young appearing females but that all are at least 18 years old.
And in no way am I supporting or protecting the owners conduct and behavior.
I personally don’t care for the clothing and so I am really indifferent to the company.
But I think every company tries to create a buzz, a brand and wants to stand out from the multitude of hundreds of clothing companies. Its image and visual and making the consumer want and feel they “need” the product,etc.
For better or worse they have carved a niche for themselves.
This is an excellent general article. Personally, I feel that you should try and get a permanent blog at the la times. This type of neighborhood journalism is the wave of the future, and actually works with the la times general business plan.
Many of your articles are better in writing style and coverage than the la times.
Bravo
“Seeing random girls off the street with their legs wide open on a billboard just makes me uncomfortable. ”
Wouldn’t want to make you feel uncomfortable!!
Anyways, I’ve been a fan of American Apparel’s stuff since 2003, before they were as huge as they are now… and while their shirts have a great look and soft feel… the supposed “high quality” standards is kind of a joke, as anyone who has ever bought their expensive clothes should know. I don’t think I’ve ever bought a garment from AA that didn’t unravel at the seams a lot sooner than it should have. But the simple style is undeniable, as is their incredible marketing… they’ve single handedly created (er… recreated, I guess) a style.
dov does not own a limo. models sendin their photos. What other company in the clothing business gave employees stock and is a multicultural company
Men may not be offended by Dov and American Apparel’s strategies and campaign, but it is very degrading to women. The buzz from this company has been generated by provocative ads glorifying anorexia and under age looking models in sexual positions.
Sexual issues aside, if a company generates more commerce and creates jobs for American citizens, I would still give them 2 thumbs up. This of course is not the case. The only reason they have a movement to “Legalize LA” is because they were caught red handed hiring illegal immigrants. Way to spin things guys! I do not see a huge difference in hiring illegal immigrants here to do the work, versus send jobs to abroad.
Taking from their name sake “American Apparel,” they could generate jobs for “American” workers by creating employment in New Orleans (hurricane Katrina victims)? In Detroit (laid off Auto Workers)?
Besides Americans, if they really wanted to make a difference, why not employ improvised people in Africa or Asia through fare trade? More money could generate better healthcare and education to improve poverty, hunger and curb the spread of the AIDS epidemic.
Anyone that can take a step back and look at the big picture can see this company has succeed by exploiting down stricken individuals.
Shannon, American Apparel workers get paid living wages with the ability to increase their pay as their skills improve. The wages are much higher than what’s paid in not only the US-based apparel industry but also other non-apparel industries.
How does the lack of livable jobs in New Orleans trump the very dire need for good jobs here in Los Angeles? Families are struggling here as well, and I know many that would love a great-paying job with benefits. You make it seem as if every American Apparel worker is an illegal immigrant out to get you.
American Apparel should be applauded for their stance on employee wages and benefits. Not only that, but in their few non-US factories, the equivalent of the American minimum wage is paid to workers.
Rich, I don’t care how much you spin it. It is what it is, and your article only glorifies American Apparel. Since your article is so slanted, a few of us readers want to put the real issues on the line. There is a right way to do things, and a wrong way to do things. American Apparel did not do the right thing and is only back tracking to support immigration reform because they were caught with their hand in the cookie jar.
All of our ancestors are American immigrants. My Pilipino Grandpa fought in 3 wars just to join the Navy and become a US Citizen. What about all the other people that worked hard to become legal citizens? Why reward individuals and companies that cut corners didn’t do the right thing?
Shannon, I think your point of view is well stated, but grossly overstated. American Apparel isn’t out to save the world of unemployment or single-handedly cure the problems of Africa.
Yes, Dov may be controversial, but no one on this blog knows him personally - and while many of the allegations stated in the comments above MAY be based on some grain of truth, many things do get blown out of proportion as hearsay.
Many contemporary fashion marketing pieces show provocative models in sexual positions - Abercrombie & Fitch models are even completely naked in their mags… and I’ve seen other company’s ads that actually depict women in sexual situations with animals. American Apparel is different how? It sells clothing and is nothing new to pop culture.
Also, everyone knows that anorexia is larger problem of the modeling industry. In fact, I think AA is unique and progressive in finding beauty in many imperfect looking people - men and women. By the way, people do send in their photographs and compete in competitions to win modeling spots - my boyfriend can attest to that. They’re not just courted off the street in some limo, wtf people?
So, the company has strong beliefs in immigration reform (good for them), and may actually employee illegal aliens, but the fact remains they offer progressive employee programs and do a lot of good will - paying for on the clock massages, providing affordable health care, free long distance to other countries for employee’s families and paying for bicycle programs (something many companies should consider doing today). The company’s extremely low turnover rate of 3% proves they are improving the quality of life for many people (legal or not) - why chastise them for things you know nothing about first-hand?
Rich wasn’t spinning anything - he was just stating the facts.
“The buzz from this company has been generated by provocative ads glorifying anorexia and under age looking models in sexual positions.”
What fashion company does it differently? Lands End, I guess? And I have to take issue with your contention than the ads glorify anorexia. AA is one of the few fashion companies I’ve seen that actually uses models that look like real girls and not skeletons. I don’t know, but if this girl and these girls and these chicks are anorexic to you, then we have very different definitions of the word.
I truly applaud AA for their marketing campaign, if only that it’s managed to expose so many liberals as having truly conservative perspectives.
This is your blog and you can run it the way you wish, but I think both of you are missing the point. Maybe if I was narcissistic and not culturally / globally aware, I would have the same views as you, but I don’t.
Actually, Shannon, I see your point, but I just don’t agree with you. Maybe I’m just not culturally/globally aware enough, though.
“Maybe if I was narcissistic and not culturally / globally aware, I would have the same views as you, but I don’t.”
LOL. That says it all.
please note that all the statements i made previously about Dov were from filmed or written interviews- not heresay. this includes the limo part. feel free to google “dov charney” along with limo, sexual harrassment, underwear, etc.
“One day, as Charney was riding along in his limo, he spotted an attractive and stylish girl on the street. He immediately told the driver to stop, jumped out of the limo, and asked this girl to model for his company. Natasha is now an employee at American Apparel.”
The HORROR!!!!!!!!!!!!
There is a dark side to every moon and this posting was in no way aimed at proposing that American Apparel is without fault. I believe the post was aimed at underlining what American Apparel is doing for Downtown, where it is located. The press and other outlets have already voiced what it views as being wrong with choices the company and CEO have made. This post was not intended to discredit those voices or to under mean the repercussions of such alleged or proven actions.
Thank you for voicing your concern, as you know, the pending cases are being looked into by the correct departments of law, to be resolved.
Well said Bryan! Thank you.
Fred,
If Alex doesn’t feel comfortable with seeing scantily clad women on a billboard it’s ok. Just because you appreciate the degrading images doesn’t mean everyone should. Furthermore, you don’t need to embarass Alex with lame sarcasm.
While American Apparel may be doing much for downtown and have fairly progressive labor practices, it’s also possible that the owner at the same time is exploitative and sexist, no? The two are not mutually exclusive. People who are progressive in many ways are also often still sexist.
Great article Rich! I love American Apparel and a few friends who work in the factory; they all love their jobs. Amazing that such a simple post could generate so much controversy and such ridiculous over statements. I can’t wait t go buy another t-shirt and support this company and their valuable contributions to the workers community.
I am offended daily by advertising I cannot avoid. perhaps the phenomenon is new to some of you, but many of us have learned to adapt.
american apparel advertises in gay publications with scantily clad men in even more suggestive positions than you’ve seen the women in. that’s their aesthetic. buy into it or don’t. but to suggest that the marketing is more degrading to women than it is to the men is, in my opinion, a load of hooey.
Fred, this may actually be of concern to you, but not necessarily to anybody else.
There is no bus service down Alameda in front of the factory, which seems strange given the factory does employ thousands of individuals who, based on stereotypes, are likely to embrace (or need) alternative modes of transportation. Their bike share program does make the trip between factory and the nearest bus stop (on 7th) more palatable, I just think its strange there is no regular bus service to such a large employer with so many employees potentially willing to use transit service on a regular basis.
As a side note, discussion of how sexist and/or morally reprehensible the owner may be is a huge non-sequitur. Transit service is though too, so what do I care?
To all you who think it is hearsay, there are plenty of articles online about him and his practices. I have met him and do know people who know him well, I have been told some really crazy things about him. Here is some written proof. To all of you who think he is doing such a great thing, it is all a cover up to hide the fact he is using illegal aliens too do his slave labor. He doesn’t pay a Los Angeles prevailing wage either, a Provost Utah one maybe. He likes to control people and illegal aliens are really easy to control, especially if you give them free phone calls and massages….
“Lawsuit? No biggie, right? Not exactly. It doesn’t help Charney’s case that his stores are papered with Penthouse and Oui magazine snapshots and that he happily admits to having sex with his employees. Nor does it help that he brags about his penchant for masturbating in front of women. So much so, that he masturbated in front of reporter Claudine Ko while she interviewed him for Jane magazine. Ko reports in Jane:
“‘Can I?’ he says adjusting himself in his chair. And thus begins another compulsive episode of what Dov likes to call “self-pleasure,” during which we casually carry on our interview, discussing things like business models, hiring practices and the stupidity of focus groups. ‘Masturbation in front of women is underrated,’ Dov explains to me later over the phone. ‘It’s much easier on the woman. She gets to watch, it’s a sensual experience that doesn’t involve a man violating a woman, yet once the man has his release, it’s over and you can talk to the guy.’ Soon enough he loosens his Pierre Cardin belt. ‘Are you going to do it again?’ I ask.”
In Ko’s article, she asserts that she witnessed Charney jerk off more than eight times in one month. However, according to jewlicious.com, Ko added later “Whenever I see a picture of Dov, I can’t help but smile and think fondly of him. That reporting experience was fun, engaging, stimulating and interesting. Dov Charney is a mad man and I like that.” If you didn’t read the Jane article, perhaps you saw Charney’s exposed penis giving Butt (a radical counter-culture fag-mag) readers the full Monty in a recent issue. If you missed that, perhaps you caught the bare-bottomed ad of him in Vice wearing nothing but a T-shirt that said “Legalize L.A.” Or maybe you read Mireya Navarro’s thoughtful New York Times account in a lengthy July 10, 2005 article: “[One of the Plaintiffs] said [Charney] once called her into his office with a co-worker and gave them both vibrators, saying, ‘It’s great during sex.’” Indeed, stunts like this, whether obnoxious or liberated, reveal Charney’s wild side à la Paris Hilton, and give needed exposure to the company. But they may ultimately alienate the store’s consumer base by… ahem… overexposing the company.”
source:
http://blacktable.com/graham050720.htm
It is at the corner of 7th and Alameda, and their are plenty of buses running on 7th, not sure if you think the LA transit buses should drive on to a public property so the tax payers of LA can pay for shuttling his illegals around. They can walk the 75 feet to 7th street. Or the 1/2 mile to the greyhound station and grab a bus to TJ…
I meant to say private property. I am dyslexic at times. or shall I say dyscixe…
Or should I say “ignorant”?
Ignorant, uneducated, etc. This type can’t even string one sentence together. One sentence…
Education is not proven by posting on a blog. Those who stand for nothing will fall for anything… Also FYI, I am myself an immigrant to this country, just not from mexico, and I did it in the legal fashion, strange concept huh?…
The 58 bus that ran along Alameda for many years was cancelled a year or 2 ago for lack of ridership. Nobody rode it. The 7th Street buses connect that area to the rest of downtown, to Metro Rail, and to the Eastside, which makes them more useful to workers than the 58.
Wow.. this is interesting thread. I own a wholesale manufacturing company and what many people do not realize is that there are a lot of factories in other less developed countries that do not provide any types of benefits for their employees or even fair wages. Why do you think it is cheaper to bring in goods from less developed countries?
I’m not a fan of AA product, but definitely applaud him for manufacturing in the US and generating jobs for the community which further supports other local businesses.
Hats off to all of you, Rich great article! I spent 20 min, laughing just reading the comments, so Mahalo to the posters too.
I have never heard of the company or their supposedly wicked CEO, being out in Hawaii paradise, not surprised.
Again, to all, thanks for the interesting info!
btw my thumbs up will most likely result in even more fun reading! Enjoy!